To the middle land

en-route to Kunzum pass

Altitude sickness, head-aches, nausea are familiar even for seasoned travelers by the time they reach Kunzum pass. It is a routine for the tourists to stop over at the Ghonpa at Kunzum pass on their way to Spiti Valley. For the locals, it’s part of their Buddhist rituals to pay respect at the Ghonpa that is visible once you start climbing from the valley. For the un-initiated, the rituals look more like a thanks-giving for offering safe passage on the wretched, narrow roads that’s been chiseled through the mountain ranges . For the tourists, this is the perfect gateway to Spiti Valley, where they also take a break and stretch their knackered-body after several hours of tideous journey from places like Manali.


road to no-where? ice formation from last winter on the 'road'
'
Soon after crossing the village of Rangrik and the extremely ugly looking hotel called Spiti Sarai (why on the earth do they ever want to build such a building when local architecture is so beautiful and efficient for their climate?. It shocks even more when you know that it’s been built by a local to ‘exploit’ the new opportunities offered by tourism), signs of the colourful Kaza are visible. From a larger hamlet consisting of multi-coloured buildings, green patches of farm land; the sight gives the idea of a prosperous small town from a distance. Tenzin, our ever-smiling driver from a village near Tabo says,” Kaza is the capital of Spiti Valley and all the administrative offices are based out of here”.


Rare breed of Spitian Chamurthi horses known for its unique gallops. Locals says Raiders like Genkis Khan used Spitian horses as the riders hardly felt tired on them.

The nearer we reach the beauty of small traditional villages and landscape transforms into ugly concrete buildings built by PWD and migrant business people. Traditional roofs have given away to metal sheets painted in green, mud walls have given away to cement plastered bricks, energy efficient ceilings have turned into ugly looking make-shift roofs.

Comparatively new to the tourism circuit, Kaza is now a base for most back-papers to move out to many attractions including Kee, Kibber, Tabo, Dhankar, and it’s in-numerous trekking routes and camp-sights. Sweeping our way through the confusing combination of drainage and tiny springs of fresh water, we checked into a newly built hotel Le Karza built by a Spitian career-civil-service officer. Of course, no one is expecting French ambiance and levels of comfort in a hotel in Kaza because it has a prefix of “Le”. Though we didn’t come to Spiti valley looking for comforts, we immersed ourselves to the comfort of our bed with clean linen and cushions. The gorgeous Mountain View from the balcony and bathroom reminded of better things to come in the coming weeks.


Our driver Tenzin was carrying a "leaf" from Manali for a fellow driver, whose vehicle was stranded near Kunzum pass for past 48 hours.

Evening in the airport

Continued from Unsuspecting travellers of...

The airport looked empty. Almost all the flights for that evening had left or was just about to leave. Even though I knew there was no way I can afford to purchase a ticket to Paris, (or any place for that matter!) I went to the Air Berlin counter. The cheapest fare they had was of 320 Euros almost as high as what the Air France or Austrian was charging as the last minute fares.

Now I had to crack how I was going to get out of this place. My only option to stay put in a place in Vienna that night was Maya. May be I could also borrow some money to purchase the flight ticket to Paris. It was the first time we met in five years or so and I wasn't comfortable at all at this idea. In any case, I decided to give her a call and let her know my status.

Once I went to the phone booth, I realised to my horror that the paper on which I had scribbled her number was in her living room and that my mobile phone was out of battery to retrieve any numbers to call my friends in Europe!! So I dialled (the only number I could remember by-heart,)Nick's number in Brighton only to hear "Hi this is Nick, Sorry I can't take your call, please leave your message, Cheers!" The meter was ticking away and I left my message as brief as I can and even gave him Maya's MSN id to drop in a message.

Just before the post office was closed, I managed to reach Nick on his mobile and I heard from the other side, "Shit". I had few more coins remaining and the miracle had to happen before I ran out of those. He had managed to leave a message on Maya's msn to which we had no idea when she would respond. She was supposed to be going out that evening and I had to be extremely lucky for her to change that plan!

My other concern was to let FP know somehow that I haven't boarded the flight and am not going to land in Paris that evening. Knowing her, I am sure she might be fuming waiting for me in the airport since evening!!

I walked around the empty airport thinking of various plans. When you don't have any money in your pocket, all your have is your guts.

With the remaining coins in my pocket (which I have to save for probably one or two last calls!),I had a chance of accessing internet in a cafe for probably 15 minutes. This was a time when most of my friends are online and I could probably take that 'suicidal risk' of spending whatever was remaining and wait for the divine intervention!

It was then the idea came!

Bangalore © GP 2007

Welcoming another year

Fort Cochin
By the beginning of the New Year in Fort Cochin, we had :

- Four hotels attacked by a mob in Fort Cochin
- Seven cars broken (those I counted on the Calvathy road)
- Foreign tourists abused (as I heard one drunk shouting to a tourist, "Go back Go back , Bloody bastard George Bush!") (What did the poor Dutch tourist and his daughter had to do with Saddam or George Bush for that matter!)
- Musicians scared away ( they were on their way to a fusion music concert)
- Business loss for many ( tourists left many restaurants fearing another attack!)
- Business gain for some (those tourists who ran ended up in the shacks on the beach!)

When asked "Who do you think these people were?", various answers came from the property owners


- Rioters! (Drunk and having fun!)
- Muslims (Emotional response to Saddams' hanging on the Eid. (Though most of the faces I saw were regulars in leftist rallies, and some of them were coming out of the reading room of a local political party office! It is quite sad to see these sort of branding)
- Business rivals ("You buy we Cook eateries" who were trying to take business away from established hotels on Calvathy road!)
- Dissidents from the Cochin carnival organising committee!

Basically when the bell struck at 12, I was wandering looking for a taxi to go home!
(What a wonderful way to celebrate the new year!)

When I found some vehicles drivers were not willing to take an "unknown" male passenger unless I have a reference of an "attached hotel" they work with! Am sure I didn't look like a "tough guy!". It's really unfortunate to be reminded of the insecurity in which this society lives!

One can't blame these drivers considering the number of murders and criminal activities that are increasing in Kerala these days.


© GP 2007

Music Trail

Mulayamkavu

Every river has a rhythm. River Nila has the uniqueness of having influenced the percussion based music culture of Kerala. The now popular percussions like Chenda, Thimila, Idakka, Madhalam, Kombu, Kuzhal, Illathaalam, have gained its existing playing style from various schools set on the banks of the river.

Today we had taken a group of American friends to get a feel of the music of the place. The idea was to introduce them to the river culture, its influence on our music and how the above instruments form various symphonies like ‘Pancha Vaadyam, Thaayambaka, Panchaari Melam, Paandimelam'.

This was a rare opportunity for them to see all the musical instruments from Kerala in one place. Hari Govindan explained how they practice throughout the day and how they master the skills. By the end of the day they were treated to a symphony of all these musical instruments played together.

From wind, string to percussion the notes varied.

And as one of our previous guests wrote, "the experience indelible..."

Hope it was the same for Allison and her family.

© GP 2006

The real story

Tirur

Quoting the Business Line report on the International Centre.

"India to get responsible tourism centre "

To commence activities with workshop on Dec 16 ICRT-India will be funded through grants, consultancy and teaching, fees.

Thiruvananthapuram , Dec. 14 India is set to become the first Asian nation to have an International Centre for Responsible Tourism (ICRT).

The non-profit ICRT-India will formally commence its activities in the country with a workshop on responsible tourism to be held in Bangalore on December 16. ICRT-India is affiliated to the international centres for responsible tourism in South Africa and The Gambia and also to the ICRT-UK, a post-graduate training and research centre at the University of Greenwich.

Dr Harold Goodwin, Director, ICRT-UK and Chief Advisor, ICRT-India told Business Line that India is ready for responsible tourism. "People increasingly want more meaningful experiences on holiday, more activities and contact, and they want their trip to be guilt-free. These are business opportunities as well as contributing to sustainable development," he said.

ICRT-India is keen to encourage the tourism industry and the Governments — both at the Centre and State-level — to do more to make tourism responsible, he said. Towards this objective, the organisation will develop its own programme of work in areas such as continuing professional development, training, research, consultancy and advocacy, he said.

ICRT-India, which will be based in Bangalore, will also work with its sister organisations in South Africa and The Gambia, Dr Goodwin added.

Academic programmes

For its academic programmes, the organisation is also looking at establishing partnerships or links with Indian educational and research institutions. Such partnerships are being considered for its planned masters and continuing professional development programmes, he said. ICRT-India is not yet talking with anyone in particular about partnerships and is open to discussions with institutions in the country, he added.

According to Dr Goodwin, ICRT-India will be funded through grants, consultancy and teaching fees. The organisation is also looking for a sponsor, he added.

Global interest

Commenting on the increasing global interest in responsible tourism, he pointed out that it is in tourism destinations that most of the work can be done to ensure sustainability and maximise local economic development. More international centres of responsible tourism are planned, he added. "

By Sankar Radhakrishnan

© GP 2006

Monsoon clouds

Two years and a half back, we were in the backwaters of Alleppey in Kerala. Three of my friends and I were scouting for locations in Central Kerala and experiences that we could share with travellers across the world.

I was so tired running around, meeting far too many people and my energy was just running out. I was so happy to get on board one of our friend's houseboat and just sleep after a sumptuous traditional lunch they served on the houseboat.

The summer day was hot and humid and we were out there waiting for the monsoon to arrive. With all the windows opened and still not a bit of air blowing from any side, I don't know how I slept. What appeared to be ages, I was woken up by heavy movement of the boat and could hear the shouting of our oarsmen. We were in the middle of the vast lake and our boat was just turning round and round in the wind!

I couldn't believe what I saw then. In few seconds, the whole lake was getting enveloped in darkness at around 330pm. The atmosphere was so charged and that was definitely a once in a life time experience. While still lying down in the bed looking out through the window, what I saw was breathtaking.

There was a huge rain cloud moving towards us from the horizon so fast.

The first monsoon cloud in that area!

It was rich, dark, mad and seductive!

© GP 2006

What's in a name?

Bangalore

Everything!

I can't remember the time or the day when I decided to set up a company with the concept of promoting Bharatapuzha (river nila) as a destination and maintaining the same as a financial engine to support the nila foundation. It was rather, a process.

When we started, there were 'n' number of travel companies promoting various destinations in Kerala. Most of them were doing regular stuff and it was into this space that we had to position ourselves. Kerala tourism was going through a growth phase, it was a Super brand. "With a dynamic tourism-trade community and sustained Government support", Kerala was one of the most well known destinations in India by then.

We needed a name that would :

-capture the imagination
-that would have a recall value and
-represent what we intend to provide our guests

"Experience!"

AV and I had couple of meetings in Bangalore, exchanged emails while she was away in Chicago, and one day there came the email! She had suggested a list of names including "Blue and Green", "Green and Blue", "Floatels" (relating to the famous houseboats of Kerala) and then; there was the gem!

The Blue Yonder!

J wasn't convinced.
For me, there was nothing much more to think about.
I fell in love with the name. This was it!


©GP 2006